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Home  »  Meet Joe Blasco  »  Les Nouvelle Esthétique: New Year's Makeovers

Joe Blasco Make-up Techniques

Tips & Techniquesby Joe Blasco

Editor's note: 

Makeup artistry styles can be as different as apples and oranges. Learning different techniques and uses of color will make you more versatile, allowing you to see a final result in a variety of ways, with one common result: beauty. The following pictorial was provided by Joe Blasco, who encourages you to take example from his makeup application tip and techniques.

Base Selection
Base selection

To choose the proper foundation, you must determine the undertone and value of the client's skin. Undertone is the intrinsic color found within the skin. Value is the lightness or darkness of the kin. The base should realistically match the undertone, which can be divided into two categories: Olive and ruddy.

Base Application
Base Application

Like this model, most people have an olive undertone. Blasco has blended three shades of olive base - light, medium and dark - to match the skin. The mixture was applied in a thin, even layer with a sponge, using a light, spreading/patting motion. On areas that required more coverage, the patting technique was used to deposit a greater concentration of pigment.

Contouring
Contouring

Blasco used a grey-brown shading medium to mimic naturally occurring shadows. It was applied under the cheekbone to define and enhance it. To thin and define the nose, shading was placed from the beginning of the eyebrow along the upper sides of nose and around the nose tip. A sponge was used to blend and soften the shading after application.

Highlighting
Highlighting

Additional definition and corrections was achieved with use of highlighting. A light yellow highlight was mixed with a small amount of medium olive beige base to create a custom color that is relative to the base tone. The highlighter was used on the cheekbone, eyebrow and nasolabial fold where natural shadows caused by depressions and folds interfere with the smooth, youthful continuity of the face. An orange highlight was used under the eyes to raise the depression and neutralize bleuness. Highlights were blended with a sponge.

Joe Blasco Powdering
Powdering

A colorless powder was applied with a powder puff to set the highlights without changing their color and intensity. A lightly colored powder was applied to the other areas of the face to set the makeup and create a matte finish. A light finishing powder was dusted over the entire face with a powder brush. The foundation is now complete and ready for accents.

Blush
Blush

A peach dry blush was applied to the top of the cheekbone to highlight. A copper dry blush was applied to the underside of the cheekbone to shadow and add color.

Brows
Brows

The model's eyebrows were tweezed into a classic shape, before Blasco used cream color compound to balance and fill.

Eye Shadow
Eye Shadow

Blasco applied the eye shadow wet, since it is more resistant to wear, lasts longer and needs little touching-up. Wet application also provides more control, accuracy and intensity. A warm brown was used for the eyelids, and highlighted with a cream color, placed below the arch of the eyebrow and on the eyelid. The colors were blended with a damp brush.

Eye Liner
Eyeliner

Eyeliner was applied with a small, dry, wedge-shaped brush to the upper eyelid, from the tear duct to the other outer corner of the eye, then to the center of the bottom lash line. The edge of he liner was softened with the brush. A blend of black and brown was used on this model.

Joe Blasco Blush
Mascara

The final touch to the eyes was created by the application of mascara, which were combed and separated.

Lips
Lips

An earth-tone lip pencil was used to line and shape the lips. A mocha color filled in the lips and was blended with a golden lip gloss to give the illusion of larger rounded lips.

Makeup Complete
Make-up Complete

Joe Blasco, founder of Joe Blasco Cosmetics, began his study of makeup at the age of seven. He is an innovator of the, "Bladder technique" utilized in films to depict transformations showing bubbling and bulging skin effects. Over the years he has worked for numerous Hollywood studios, increasing his knowledge of makeup in the film and television industries. His celebrity clients have included Bette Midler, Olivia Newton-John, Lauren Bacall, Carol Burnett, and the late Orson Wells.

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