Joe Blasco Make-up Techniques
After skin care, Make-up begins with the foundation. To choose the proper foundation you must determine the undertone and value of the model’s skin. Undertone is the intrinsic color found within the skin. Value is the lightness or darkness of the skin. Joe Blasco Bases are designed to realistically match the undertone by being divided into two categories, Olive and Ruddy. Within each category there are several series of colors (from light to dark) with varying degrees of yellow-green (olive) or red (ruddy).
In this particular Make-up, the model, as the majority of all people, has an olive undertone. Three Joe Blasco Olive Base Series were spot tested on the model’s skin to determine which had the closest undertone match, Special Olive, Olive Beige and Warm Olive. These three series have increasing amounts of olive; Special Olive having the least and Warm Olive having the most. Special Lite Olive #2 was tested on the skin and appeared to be slightly pink, indicating there was not enough richness of olive in the base to match the skin. Warm Olive #2 was tested and was found to be slightly yellow, indicating too much olive. Olive Beige #2 was tested and was found to match the model’s undertone and shade(value) exactly.
All Joe Blasco Cosmetics are highly pigmented. Joe Blasco Ultra Bases contain 55% pigment. This high concentration of pigment allows you to use a small amount of product and achieve a thin application with maximum coverage. Using a Joe Blasco microporous™ sponge, Make-up was taken from the container, then gently applied to the face in a light spreading/patting motion, applying a small amount as if it were a skin stain. On areas that required more coverage, the patting technique was used to deposit a greater concentration of pigment.
Joe Blasco Light skin Shading contains the gray-brown which appears in naturally occurring shadows. Light skin Shading was applied under the cheekbone to define and enhance the cheekbone by creating a shadow beneath it. To thin and define the nose, shading was placed from the beginning of the eyebrow along the upper sides of the nose and around the nose tip. After application of the shading color, the sponge was used to blend and soften the application.
dditional defining and correction were accomplished by the use of Joe Blasco Special Yellow Highlight mixed with a small amount of Olive Beige #2. The mixing of the Base with the Highlighter creates a custom highlighting color that is base-tone related. The highlighter was used on the cheekbone, bridge of the nose, and other areas (such as above the eyebrow and nasolabial fold) where natural shadows caused by shallow facial depressions and folds interfere with the smooth, youthful, continuity of the face. After the application, the highlights were blended with the sponge, and the excess was removed using the back of the sponge.
Joe Blasco Orange Highlight 1 was chosen for use under the eyes to raise the depression and neutralize the blueness. It was blended and softened with the sponge.
Joe Blasco No-Color Powder, which contains no pigment (making it colorless), was applied with a powder puff to set the highlights without changing the color and intensity of those highlights. Then Joe Blasco Light Powder was applied to other areas of the face to set the Make-up and create a matte finish.
At this point the foundation is complete and is ready for the decorative and accent aspects of the Make-up , such as Brow-Color™ eye shadow, blush color and lip color. However, before continuing, Joe Blasco Light Finish Powder was lightly dusted over the entire face with a powder brush.
Joe Blasco Georgia Peach Dry Blush was applied to the top of the cheekbone as a highlight accent. On the underside of the cheekbone, Joe Blasco Midnight Copper Dry Blush was used to shadow and add color to the cheeks.