Glamor Make-up African American 2017-06-09T20:41:18+00:00

GLAMOR MAKE-UP
African American

Glamor Make-up African American

The following photos are taken from the encyclopedic textbook “The Professional Makeup Artist” written by Joe Blasco and Vincent JR Kehoe. This sensational three-volume book has become the globally definitive written work on the art of professional makeup, and is used throughout all training sessions.

Click on an image for a larger version and the complete explanation

To increase the drame of darker skin, we start from an already applied clean beauty make-up with the application of additional cheek color.
The shading under the cheekbones is intesified with the use of dry shadow applied with a flat Chinese brush.
A deeper shade of cheek color is applied to the lower side of the shadow between the top of the sheekbone and the painted shading. Iridescence has been applied under the brows and onto the eyelids, and the eyebrows and eyeliner are punctuated using finer strokes of black Ultamatte applied with the Ultamatte brush by Mr. Blasco.
The type of brush normally used to apply iridescence can be either natural fur, such as sable, or synthetic. In this case, a white Ve Neill synthetic brush is used.
The outer corners of the eye are highlighted between the upper and lower eyeliners using pearl fantasy color.
A magenta eye color added to the lower drop shadow (Obviously a design option).
The eyeliner is slightly strenghtened using a fine round brush and water-applied cake liner near the lashes, which is swepted onto the real lashes at their base.
The same cake liner, instad of Ultamatte, can also be used to accentuate the brows if the artist chooses to do so.
Using a pointed #2 or #3 round sable brush, the eyeliner can be extended to a fine point with water-applied cake eyeliner.
The same #2 or #3 round sable brush can be used to further tip the lashes with mascara and to soften the top edge of the upper eyeliner.
A technique not recommended but used in many instances is that of applying black or brown pencil to the mucous membrane of the lower eyelid. If this technique is used, the pencil must be freshly sharpened and steralized with no less than twenty minutes of immersion in 99 percent alcohol.
The application of a deeper, more vivid lip color to create dramatic lips. Do not extend color completely to the lip border edge on large lips, but simply soften the outermost area of the lip color to blend naturally into surrounding foundation.
Edging the lip line.
The application of yellow gold fantasy color to the lips to create dimension. Normally applied below the cupids’s bow of the upper lip on each side and in the center of the lower lip, the color must be gently blended with a brush while the lips are in smiling position for even distribution, not only over the lip area, but down into lip crevices.
The application of magenta fantasy color to the outermost portion of the upper lip.
The application of the same color above the eyeshadow.
The application of magenta into the drop shadow.
Once all of the iridescent and color accents have been applied, they are blended to appear softer. Here Mr. Blasco poses with the model in the finished glamour make-up.